What are the common mistakes gardeners make?
• They prepare planting pits just before planting the seedlings. Some certain processes in the soil should have been initiated which would prepare good environment for root ball to give it best possible start.
• Don’t plant saplings too deep in the ground. Rinds may rot at the base of the stems and trees may die out within 3-4 years. You should remember that apple, pear, plum, cherry, raspberry are the cultivars which root crown should be at the soil surface level while bedding out.
• The seedlings are transported with foliage and uncovered roots. It is strongly unacceptable. You should always cover the roots with a wet cloth. If the roots nonetheless had dried up, dip it into water for 1-2 days, so it could take up enough moisture before being planted.
• If adult seedlings of 3-5 years are planted, they usually end up suffering from diseases for a long time, do not bear many fruit and often die from loss of the roots while being dug out. The best age for fruit trees saplings is one or two years.
What is an approximate scheme of nursing of tree crowns during a year?
February-March: Whilst there is spare time and there is no vegetable growth under the trees yet, you should prepare light, pollard trees, remove dead and old branches.
April-May: It’s important to crown thin saplings to allow more light and to prevent dropping off of the ovary and fruit enlargement. The abundance of light and good airing reduce fruit decay. At this period the condition of branches and their fertility are clearly visible, and scars on the bark hill over much faster when an active life is dawning in it.
June-July: it is better to revive old overgrown seeded trees now, than in the fall. The nipping and thinning enhances ripening of a harvest.
August-September: stone fruit trees have already “given” the harvest and are ready for any kind of processing. Moreover, they will have enough time to prepare for the winter after that. However, flower beds or a fertile garden plot under a tree may complicate the process.
October-November: You are free to do anything y
ou want with any cultivars. But you should treat freshly cut scars with pruning sealer and once more smooth it out with a knife up to a living edges in spring too.
What does a tree need and what does its master need?
Primary aim of any fruit tree in existence is growing and producing as much fruit as possible. In most common settings trees primarily struggle for light and space. Here are the characteristics of an effective garden tree to consider prior to planting:
• It should not be higher than you. Tall trees are harder to establish. In fact, a smaller tree is easier to plant and easier to maintain as well as harvest the crop. And all the efforts You put are targeted to the fruit-spurs, but not to a useless multitude of branches stretching into the sky.
• All branches should be easily accessible not only for easier collecting the fruit, but also for pinching the bourgeons.
• Each branch of the crown must be a fruit-spur, i.e. branches should be inclined or horizontal and open to the sunrays for the most time of the day. A tree will be fruitful only when all the forces are directed to nutrition of the fruits. Why would it “distract” itself for building up useless branches?
• Smaller trees takes up less space and do not obscure the plot (only if it is not a relaxing area).
We wish you successful planting of and should you need assistance, give us a shout
We’ve got a new gardening season at the threshold, and each of the landowners, whether he’s got a small or large plot, is building long-term plans for its settlement. It might seem that for allotment gardeners, whose sites have long been treated and planted, this process is much easier, but it’s not as they’ve got heavy workload every year. But for novice landowners everything is much more difficult. They should put a lot of efforts and work much before they get real visible results.
If You’ve got untreated plot of land, first of all You should uproot it from the wild plants, treat and cultivate the soil. And what is more newcomers usually plan some constructions on this stage. New owners of more or less treated land plots are usually in a hurry to plant it with the maximum of different cultures immediately after the acquisition. Frequently they unknowingly assume on their allotments many severe mistakes, which professionals then have to correct for a long time that sometimes take more than one year. Any rush in this case is no good. Before mastering the land plot, You should properly plan it with due consideration of the orientation relative to the cardinal directions, topography, location of close laid communications and other factors.
Try to imagine where and what should be located. You should decide where You will place utility zone, zone for premises (if there are no such ones), chose a place for garden beds and various fruit plants. Try to make a plan and put it on paper. Looking at your sketches try to imagine how you leave the house to fetch water, opening the greenhouse on your way to the well to give it airing and then, without going far from home, set about weeding the vegetable beds. Only after You have decided what is the most convenient alternate layout for You, proceed to the selection of fruit crops. Of course, the matter is not that simple, and even experienced and highly skilled designers sometimes spend much more time than a single day making a proper plan for the site. But, in our opinion, it is much more easer for each separate land owner to adapt his place of work and rest to his own dreams and plans.
Choosing a right assortment of fruit crops is also no simple matter. Lucky are those landowners who own more than 10 acres of land, in such a case, they can purchase and plant anything they want. But if your land plot is small and every piece of it is for a count, what should You do if You’d like to grow for your family the maximum number of crops?
The main mistake many allotment gardeners are making is that they are trying to buy as many seedlings as possible and plant the land plot with them massively. Being in the excitement they buy up everything without distinction. Please don’t try to grasp the immensity. At first, this tactics, of course, will bring some results and the harvest will be plenteous. But You should not forget that over the time plants need much more living space than in the early years, their need for nutrients, lighting and so on will change a lot. On the contrary, thick planting over the years will cause the harvest getting worse: the fruits will be small and tasteless.
While choosing planting material You should give preference to the best brands, both new and old proven ones. It is especially important to select promising cultivars which are recommended for the area where your garden plot is located. There is no point in bringing plants from other regions. So many disappointments get allotment gardeners in central regions, purchasing seedlings from the neighboring more southern countries. Strong-looking seedlings frequently fail to get accustomed to new conditions. The first winter would be fatal for this kind of planting material. Large majority of southern cultivars, surviving in the northern, eastern and western regions of the country, get not enough heat and the fruits are completely tasteless. Fruits of the northern cultivars ripen in the southern regions prematurely and lose the ability to storage. So, is it worth spending time and energy on growing those products, which You wouldn’t eat?
If your land plot is small it would be much more advantageous to put on it one or two cultivars of apple trees with different ripening terms. For example, the old and proven early ripening cultivars would be rather suitable, such as Melba, Papirovka. Later ripening cultivars appropriate for the long term storage are Sparzan and other. Not far from them You can bed out two or three bushes of edible honeysuckle of different and preferably not too high cultivars. Light penumbra of apple crown would not hurt them. But a shadow of large trees over the years will surely appear. Near to each other can coexist two bushes of black currant (with different ripening terms) or one bush of red and another of white current. We believe that You can always find a space for a couple of small Japanese quince bushes. Having chosen cultivars blossoming with white and scarlet red flowers, You will surely decorate your garden and collect the nutritious fruitage, which will implement you during the winter season with much-needed vitamin C.
Gooseberries would perfectly accommodate between plum trees. If You’d love to pick berries for a long period, You should select a red-, yellow- or green-fruited cultivars with different ripening terms and as the result from midsummer to autumn You’ll be able to relish not only delicious, but also very curative fruits of gooseberry.
We strongly discourage planting the land plot with many plum trees. Firstly, most of them give a huge amount of root-shoots, which You’ll have to fight endlessly. Secondly, in a fruitful year correctly chosen cultivars will give You enough fruits not only for feeding your family, but for canning and treating your friends, relatives and neighbors.
For children and for home treatment of colds it is necessarily to bed out somewhere near the fence a few bushes of a macrocarpous varietal raspberry. If for any reason You don’t like raspberry, try to bed out horticultural dewberry.
To an utmost regret such a much beloved by lots of people cultures as cherry will not produce crops at any land plot. That’s why before buying seedlings You should ascertain whether the land plot has a suitable location and what is more important, whether the soil is suitable for this crop (cherry categorically refuses to bear fruit on peaty soils). We recommend to decide on such cultivars as Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya and Chocolate. These cultivars are winter-hardy, disease-resistant and bear fruit every year.
If desired, You can bed out pear trees with different ripening terms such as Lada – a cultivar ripening in summer, Chizhovskyaya – a cultivar ripening in late summer, and others.
And one more tip for You: do not bed out large spreading trees in the middle of the land plot, otherwise later it will shade the most of the plot. Try to bed out large trees and shrubs keeping close to the periphery of the plot. Please don’t forget that you still need a place for making cultivation beds for vegetable and herbaceous crops, strawberries. For these crops You should first of all pick up the most lightened place on the land plot with good soil conditions. At the southern wall of the house You can bed out grapes or any other mostly heat-loving plants.
Try to allocate a small site for recreation area where you could swing in a hammock or sit with your guests. In this area, You’d better try to use a decorative tree crops and perennial floricultural crop. You can get wants and needs met and incorporate in composition some decorative horticultural, such as barberry, viburnum, mespilus, hawthorn, sweet briar. In this matter everything depends on your taste and preferences. And of course, in the vicinity of recreation area You should not forget to bed out shrubs beautifully blooming and smelling during flowering – jasmine, lilac, silverberry elaeagnus and other.
You can always get in touch with us should you find yourself in a need of an advice.