Timely fruit tree management

What are the common mistakes gardeners make?
• They prepare planting pits just before planting the seedlings. Some certain processes in the soil should have been initiated which would prepare good environment for root ball to give it best possible start.
• Don’t plant saplings too deep in the ground. Rinds may rot at the base of the stems and trees may die out within 3-4 years. You should remember that apple, pear, plum, cherry, raspberry are the cultivars which root crown should be at the soil surface level while bedding out.
• The seedlings are transported with foliage and uncovered roots. It is strongly unacceptable. You should always cover the roots with a wet cloth. If the roots nonetheless had dried up, dip it into water for 1-2 days, so it could take up enough moisture before being planted.
• If adult seedlings of 3-5 years are planted, they usually end up suffering from diseases for a long time, do not bear many fruit and often die from loss of the roots while being dug out. The best age for fruit trees saplings is one or two years.

soil digging, young plant

What is an approximate scheme of nursing of tree crowns during a year?

February-March: Whilst there is spare time and there is no vegetable growth under the trees yet, you should prepare light, pollard trees, remove dead and old branches.
April-May: It’s important to crown thin saplings to allow more light and to prevent dropping off of the ovary and fruit enlargement. The abundance of light and good airing reduce fruit decay. At this period the condition of branches and their fertility are clearly visible, and scars on the bark hill over much faster when an active life is dawning in it.
June-July: it is better to revive old overgrown seeded trees now, than in the fall. The nipping and thinning enhances ripening of a harvest.
August-September: stone fruit trees have already “given” the harvest and are ready for any kind of processing. Moreover, they will have enough time to prepare for the winter after that. However, flower beds or a fertile garden plot under a tree may complicate the process.
October-November: You are free to do anything y

ou want with any cultivars. But you should treat freshly cut scars with pruning sealer and once more smooth it out with a knife up to a living edges in spring too.

What does a tree need and what does its master need?

Primary aim of any fruit tree in existence is growing and producing as much fruit as possible. In most common settings trees primarily struggle for light and space. Here are the characteristics of an effective garden tree to consider prior to planting:
• It should not be higher than you. Tall trees are harder to establish. In fact, a smaller tree is easier to plant and easier to maintain as well as harvest the crop. And all the efforts You put are targeted to the fruit-spurs, but not to a useless multitude of branches stretching into the sky.
• All branches should be easily accessible not only for easier collecting the fruit, but also for pinching the bourgeons.
• Each branch of the crown must be a fruit-spur, i.e. branches should be inclined or horizontal and open to the sunrays for the most time of the day. A tree will be fruitful only when all the forces are directed to nutrition of the fruits. Why would it “distract” itself for building up useless branches?
• Smaller trees takes up less space and do not obscure the plot (only if it is not a relaxing area).

We wish you successful planting of and should you need assistance, give us a shout